I've been thinking recently ("Uh- oh," is my wife's, Mrs. E.'s, guarded response) about the past. Not about anything more important than the things that defined elegant menswear during the "golden age" of the 1930's.
The author has worn his father’s heavy wool 1940‘s double- breasted dinner jacket since his days in high school.
That aesthetic is my touchstone for dressing well—something that seems to be coming back into vogue during our lean times.
I say “lean,” because that’s the silhouette that is most in fashion at the moment. If it is suited to your physique, now is a great time to buy. Buy the best you can; fashion is a house built on sand. Already, pleated trousers are shown on the catwalks and lapels are growing larger.
But, if you can’t buy new—at $600-$1,500 for a decent suit—think vintage, ‘30s drape, or ‘50s sack for the Mad Man/Ivy look. For beautifully constructed garments at reasonable prices, the past is perfect. You may not look fashionable, but you will be well-dressed.
Some of the best made clothing I own is vintage. I have dinner jackets (tuxedos) made in the ’30s and ’40s that belonged to Mrs. E.’s grandfather and my father, respectively.
I have a wonderful three- piece suit of 14 oz. wool, made for Mrs. E.’s grandfather by Gieves of Savile Row. I regularly wear my father’s Harris Tweed sportcoats, the oldest of which was made for him in the 1950‘s, with khakis or grey flannel trousers. They’re practically bullet proof.
My tailcoat is vintage 1940’s bought at Halcyon (117 N Robinson St.) here in Richmond, as was a houndstooth topcoat with a red plaid horseblanket lining (Sandon & Co., Savile Row, perfect for a cold stadium) and a 1960’s Chesterfield coat.
All told those pieces cost me less than the English flannel I bought for a suit that has yet to be made. The trick to buying vintage is to know your measurements and know a good tailor, because fit is everything. Try George’s Alterations (1344 Gaskins Road).
Finding your style is a bit trickier. I’ll address that in another column.
