Casey Ward and Ian Kelley had big plans for Sugar Shack-an express window outside, gradual growth and name recognition, and dreams of a peaceful little shop on a corner where their enterprise would take hold. On the contrary, Sugar Shack exploded out of the gates, immediately outgrew its space, and has become one of the most popular small craft businesses in Greater Richmond in recent years.
Since opening June 11, the Shack at Leigh and Lombardy streets has seen a steady stream of customers despite a few rough initial days of being understaffed, understocked, and underprepared. Ward is funny and blunt about that first week: “We definitely got our butts kicked,” he says. On the Shack’s first Sunday, Ward was spotted in the kitchen donning a CamelBak for on-the-go hydration and caked in flour as he pounded out the dough.
Blindsided by the popularity, the Shack closed for three days to, as Ward says, “rehire, restock, and recoup. We got things back in order pretty quickly.” The express window idea is now a distant memory, and Sugar Shack has figured out how to balance its heavy customer base. During the past few years, Richmond has been praised nationally for its inspired and up-and-coming food scene. Restaurants win accolades in influential food magazines, and menus feature imaginative fare that would please even the toughest critics. And for those who wake up hungry, a delicious, sometimes sophisticated, but always approachable food is readily available and doesn’t even require utensils: the donut. Around 4 a.m., as most people cling to their last couple hours of sleep, Betsy Thomas begins making those smile-inducing and taste bud-pleasing donuts that greet customers when they visit Dixie Donuts on Cary Street.
Thomas opened Dixie Donuts with co-owner J Frank in 2012, and Richmonders have been flocking to the store for their inventive cake donut creations ever since. With flavors like Virginia Sweet Potato topped with peanuts and pecans, Vanilla Raspberry and Strawberry Shortcake, just to name a few, it’s easy to see why neither have been able to take a vacation since opening. “We wanted to offer interesting and unique flavors,” Thomas says about starting Dixie Donuts. “Customers get to try something they’ve never had on a donut.” The exact origin of the donut is unclear. Some historians say donuts became popular in America after World War I when U.S. troops enjoyed the flaky, fried goods in the trenches of France. The first donut machine made its debut in New York City in 1920.
When it comes to Richmond donut history, many would look to Country Style Donuts in Richmond’s East End. The current owners have been with the bakery for nearly 30 years. Baskets lining the back wall are filled with traditional-style donuts like Boston cremes, jelly-filled and bear claws that are made fresh daily. Open 24 hours a day, except Mondays, you’ll often see a cadre of retired men sipping coffee at the store’s counter while professionals come in and out picking up a dozen donuts for lucky coworkers.
In 2011, Richmond’s donut scene became a little more mobile as Judy Yoder, owner of Mrs. Yoder’s Kitchen, started her now-famous donut truck. The donut-filled food truck makes stops throughout the city, but its presence at the South of the James Farmer’s Market has become a Richmond tradition. To fulfill demand at the market, Yoder, along with her three daughters and husband, arrive at 5:30 a.m. each Saturday to begin mixing dough. All donuts are made from scratch with a bag of flour and the family’s secret ingredients. The Yoder family typically sells a staggering 1,600 to 2,000 donuts each Saturday by noon. “We love working together as a family,” Yoder says. “My favorite part of the business is providing a product that brings so much happiness to people.”
Back at Sugar Shack, co-owners, Ian Kelley and Casey Ward, offer handmade, hand-cut, and hand-dipped donuts. Kelley gets into the kitchen at midnight to start prepping, while donuts are made every four hours to ensure freshness. Fruit glazes and fillings are made with fresh fruit as well. Sugar Shack has some interesting flavors available, including a maple-glazed with bacon on top and the Irish Car Bomb, the donut version of the popular drink, featuring Guinness dough with Bailey’s and Jameson custard.
Why have donuts become such an endearing part of American culture and so popular in Richmond? We might not have an answer for that, but perhaps Frank of Dixie Donuts explains it best: “Donuts make people happy.” To figure it out for yourself, go pick up a dozen at your favorite local donut shop.
The Yoder family typically sells a staggering 1,600 to 2,000 donuts each Saturday by noon. When it comes to Richmond donut history, many would look
to Country Style Donuts in Richmond’s East End.